This sums it up. Not everyone understand the happiness I get when I surf.
If you mention the movie Point Break to almost any surfer worth his sex wax, he’s likely to either start cussing as he explains how Hollywood never gets surfing right, or she might tell you how she’d also love to rob banks and travel the world, or they might just do a shitty impression of Keanu Reeves.
“I am an F.B.I. agent!”
Sometimes I do all three. I won’t lie. And I’ll admit it- I surf and I like Point Break. Kathryn Bigelow directed it. As if that somehow might make it all okay. But you gotta understand, I grew up skateboarding in Northern California, I’m expected to have terrible taste in movies. Skaters are notorious for their strange taste in films. Or in my case, bad taste. When I finally moved to the beach, I started surfing. Just as I always assumed, I’d been in the wrong place…
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